2016-07-06 / Restaurant of the Week

Burnside Biscuits

Burnside Biscuits is the perfect combination of hip, modern dining in a down home Southern setting. The picket fence outside already beckons you in to sit for a spell and enjoy a cool drink and lunch, dinner, or brunch outdoors, or inside this one-year-old restaurant. The interior looks like mama’s kitchen with charming tile floors, glass front cabinets, white wood tables and a long, inviting bar counter that looks into the kitchen. It is there that you’ll see the wood-burning oven that renders Burnside Biscuits eponymous biscuits, and so many other outrageously good dishes including fried chicken, country ribs, and shrimp and grits.

Start with one of their inventive cocktails like the Sweet Georgia, bourbon-based drink, the Charlotte Pomp mixed with gin, lavender, and lemon, or the Hemingway Daiquiri that’s cool, tangy, and so refreshing. Burnside Biscuits carries several craft beers in cans and bottles, and features a festive Happy Hour from 5-8pm with $5 and $6 beers, wine and your choice of a Moscow Mule, Kentucky Mule, or Mexico Mule, all using different spirits.

Burnside Biscuits appetizers are huge so you’ll want to bring some friends and share an Oyster fry made from East Coast oysters, dusted with cornmeal and deep fried until golden along with fried pickles, lemon slices (yes!) and capers. Dip one of those crunchy, juicy, plump oysters in the zesty lemon aioli for a mouth-watering experience. From the wood oven come Sticky Black Jack carrots served in a cast iron skillet full of whole, roasted, glazed carrots over carrot puree ($10). If you’re a fan of Brussel sprouts, you’ll love the Warn Crispy Brussels, caramelized with bacon and topped with Vermont white cheddar cheese. Speaking of cheese, the Crack Mac ‘n Cheese is addictive, made with sharp cheddar, pimento, and crispy cornbread crumb topping ($9). The broccoli roast is great too and there are many vegetarian and gluten-free options to choose from.

Chef de cuisine, Corey Cash, is a Southern boy with a formal culinary education. He makes everything from scratch, including the hot sauce, barbecue sauces and rubs. Only the finest ingredients are used, including fresh, organic chicken from Goffle Farms. If this concept sounds familiar, it’s because the same owners of Bareburger are behind this new concept, and this writer predicts that it’s only a matter of time before you see more Burnside Biscuits around town. The fried chicken is first brined for 24 hours, dredged in seasoned flour, then pressure-fried to seal in all the flavor and juices, while creating a delectable crunch outside. Choose homemade barbecue sauce, cayenne, honey mustard, or ranch sauce, and for heaven’s sake, “Please pass the biscuits!” That’s what you came for, isn’t it? The wood-burning oven sears the bottom of the biscuit and makes the crust so gently crisp that when you pull them apart (never cut a biscuit with a knife) you reveal the tender inside, piping hot, and great with butter, the dipping sauces, or honey. The chicken comes in 2-, 4-, or 8-piece orders so the whole table can dine family style. Chicken and waffles is another popular item with sticky maple glazed, classic, or Nashville style chicken. This dish is also available for lunch and weekend brunch. I’ll be back for the chicken sandwiches too, great for lunch or brunch.

Chow down on Burnside Biscuits’ baby back ribs, so succulent after 4 hours in the smoker, basted with house made sauce and slow cooked. These juicy ribs fall off the bone and come in half-rack and full rack portions. Whatever you order, I can guarantee you’ll have some tasty leftovers the next day. We loved the classic Creole dish of shrimp and grits, made with andouille sausage, Creole sauce and creamy grits ($18). The skillet seared striped bass also sounded great, and the cider braised pork shank will give you a reason to come back for more Southern goodies. Even the Burnside Burger is special, made from organic beef, dry-aged for 21 days, and topped with cheese, roasted garlic and organic bacon, served with double fried fries for a memorable meal.

Southerners and Northerners alike enjoy a good dessert, and Burnside has cast iron cornbread pudding, country apricot cobbler, and Civil S’mores to share. The coffee is rich and robust, roasted by Nobletree Coffee in Brooklyn. Enjoy a relaxed lunch out on the veranda overlooking bustling 30th Avenue, or weekend brunch served Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 4pm. There’s live Bluegrass music during Sunday brunch, jazz on Thursday and Friday nights, and a fantastic D.J. spinning vintage vinyls on Saturday nights. Plan on walking home so you can digest and reflect on the well-executed, satisfying meal you just enjoyed. Burnside Biscuits’ website will give you even more information but really, all you need to know is that you must go to Burnside Biscuits, very conveniently located just down from the 30th Avenue stop of the N/Q train. Enter the picket fence, loosen your belt, and leave your worries behind. Y’all will come back here for sure!

32-07 30th Avenue
Astoria  917.832.7822

www.burnsidebiscuits.com

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