T his elegant Italian chop house at Roosevelt Avenue and 61st Street in the heart of Woodside has been totally transformed from a one-time

pub. The decor features

exposed brick walls, gleaming wood floors, sleek lighting and contemporary artwork, including bronze sculptures created by a Queens artist. Two fireplaces in the rear of the dining room create cozy dining areas that are perfect for private or intimate gatherings.

Sir Vino's, a play on words and meaning "Mr. Wine", is an apt name for this fine restaurant, where wines from around the world have a central role in the cuisine. Vintages from Italy, France, South America, Australia and California are stacked in a massive wine rack that occupies an entire wall in the restaurant. Fear not though-wines here start at just $17 a bottle and go well with the cuisine which includes classic Italian pasta, poultry and fish, and, true to the restaurant's name, a wealth of steaks and chops.

Mauricio Cordoba and Peter McCaughey are behind this successful venue which opened last April, much to the delight of residents of this up and coming neighborhood. Lunch and dinner are served seven days a week, and the weekend brunch is already quite popular among locals. Customers can enjoy a cocktail or a glass of fine wine at the bar and there's Happy Hour on weekdays from 4 to 6 p.m.

If you come for dinner, start with a platter of Prince Edward Island mussels served with a garlicky red or white wine sauce, and soak up the heavenly juices with an assortment of warm bread and rolls. The crab cake, served with a ramekin of homemade tartar sauce, is generously sized and full of sweet crabmeat ($8.95). Hot antipasto for two will satisfy all your cravings for jumbo shrimp, crisp baked clams, mussels, stuffed mushrooms, stuffed peppers, eggplant rollatini and artichoke hearts for $14.95. The home style French onion soup, always on the menu, and the soup of the day are served piping hot ($4.95). A garden fresh salad of mesculin greens, endive, roasted peppers, Portobello mushrooms and creamy goat cheese is nearly a meal in itself, b u t please save room for your entrée.

True to the chop house part of its name, Sir Vino's offers an amazing, top quality 48-ounce Porterhouse for two that's been aged for 28 days. The aging process gives this steak its rich flavor and unbelievable texture. Served with two side dishes, this entrée for two is only $59.95. Other offerings include a 20-ounce rib-eye steak, New York sirloin steak or 24-ounce T-bone, all cooked to order and served with fluffy mashed potatoes and a medley of fresh, sautéed vegetables. Thick cut pork chops or a rack of Sir Vino's baby back ribs with their own barbecue sauce are both tempting.

Fresh North Atlantic salmon or stuffed tilapia are top notch, but perhaps the most popular fish entrée at Sir Vino's is the sesame crusted yellow- fin tuna, pan seared to perfection and served with a delicate ginger and teriyaki sauce ($16.95).

If you love pasta as much as I do, try the fresh fettuccine with a mélange of Portobello, button and oyster mushrooms in a delicate sauce with sundried tomatoes. This woodsy, autumnal dish is Italian comfort food at its best. Rigatoni rusticana is tossed with sautéed eggplant and plum tomatoes for just $10.95. A lunch size portion of this same dish is available for $5.95. Rich, meaty spaghetti Bolognese is available for dinner or lunch at the same low price. I can't wait to try the linguine with white clam sauce or lobster ravioli in a pink tomato sauce.

Sir Vino's wouldn't be an Italian restaurant without such classic dishes as chicken, veal or shrimp prepared a la

Francese,

Marsala, oreganata or parmigiana. One of my favorite Italian dishes is pork chops with hot vinegar peppers. Sir Vino's adds a lot of class to this "peasant" dish by using tender, boneless pork loin, thinly sliced hot peppers and sprigs of fresh rosemary. The leftovers were just as good the next day. In addition to everything the menu has to offer, the chef's weekly specials include filet mignon in puff pastry and pork loin with brandy and cherry sauce. For dessert, try the house made apple tart with whipped cream or one of the other equally deliciously decadent choices.

Sir Vino's lunch specials start at $5.95 and include pasta, grilled chicken or sliced skirt steak sandwiches, 10- ounce burgers, soups and salads. The $8.95 lunch special, including soup and an entrée, is hard to beat. Sir Vino's will deliver lunch or dinner with a $10 minimum order. Brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and includes eggs Benedict or Florentine, omelets or a full Irish breakfast with sausage and grilled tomatoes.

An all-out feast from soup to nuts will be served on Thanksgiving Day for the low price of $34.95. If you don't fancy turkey, there are several other items to choose from, including juicy steak. Call now to reserve your spot by the fireplace.

Weekend reservations are recommended. Private parties can be arranged. The food and wine are excellent, and matched only by the friendly service. Visit Sir Vino's soon and toast the good life with fine wine and great food.