on't go to Greek Captain if you want steak, chops or pasta. But if you love

fish and seafood fresh from the ocean,

you owe it to yourself to visit Greek Captain on 36th Avenue in Long Island City. The understated faade features a window that boasts dozens of whole, fresh fish and seafood on ice, along with a tank full of live lobsters. The simple menu features nothing but the best fish and seafood, prepared simply, right on the spot.

The "Captain", Angelo Skentzos, and his wife, Teresa, have been welcoming diners for 13 years and will make you feel very comfortable. The casual, no frills, come-as-you-are dining room has a clean, nautical motif with whitewashed walls, Grecian blue trim and seafaring items for decoration. Handsome woodwork is reminiscent of a ship's cabin. Service is fast and friendly and best of all, the tip is included in the price of the food, making Greek Captain a real bargain.

The one-page menu features only the fish and seafood brought in daily. In addition, a blackboard out front details special catches of the day. Come in now, while tiny, sweet soft shell crabs are in season. You can have them fried crisp and brown, or sauted until tender. You can even share them as a first course.

Order a carafe of house wine or an ice-cold beer while you check out the starters. Grilled octopus is one of my favorites, owing to its tender texture and the vinegar and oil dressing that accompanies it. There are also crisp baked clams and shrimp cocktail, with plump shrimp almost the size of small lobster tails. We shared a plate of four crab cakes that were chock full of sweet lump crabmeat, herbs and spices. A dab of tartar sauce makes these delights taste even better. Hearty fish soup,

shrimp chowder or lobster chowder are also great to start with and go well with the fabulous D warm, crusty garlic bread brought to the table.

Entrees run from $13.99 to $24.99 for the special Greek Captain combination, a huge platter of steamed crab legs, lobster tail, shrimp stuffed with crab meat, clams and scallops. The broiled combo teams salmon and flounder fillet, plump shrimp and broiled scallops and defies you to finish everything. Choose a whole fish such as porgy, red snapper or black sea bass grilled and filleted tableside, if you wish. Sea bass, sole, swordfish or halibut can be grilled over charcoal or broiled for around $18.99. Gigantic King crab legs are served with melted butter and lemon. All entrees are served with a bountiful Greek salad full of fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, red onion and creamy feta cheese and your choice of seasoned rice, baked potato or French fries.

Who can resist the crunch and flakiness of fried fish? Greek Captain prepares light and crispy fried shrimp, snapper, whiting, fillet of sole and scallops and tasty fish and chips. The secret of Greek Captain's success is simplicity. Only fresh fish and seafood is served. Dinners come complete with salad and choice of potato or rice and the tip is included in the price. Greek Captain is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, from 11am till midnight. Wine and beer is served and families are always welcome. In order to keep their prices low, only cash is accepted.

With the tip included in the price, Greek Captain is an economical way to enjoy topnotch fish and seafood that is fresh from the ocean and never frozen.

Valet parking is available on the weekends or just take the N train to 36th Avenue. If you can't get to the sea, the sea comes to you at Greek Captain, where the fish is always fresh and the service is always fast and friendly. Remember, it's cash only.