Renovated Trieste Restaurant Reopens
Trieste Restaurant on Northern Boulevard in Jackson Heights has been serving fine Northern Italian cuisine for 26 years. The proprietors are three brothers from Istria in the northern reaches of Italy. Lorenzo Honovic greets guests in the dining room while Romano and Elio work their magic in the kitchen. The secret of their success is in using the finest, freshest ingredients and preparing each recipe from scratch each day.
The restaurant closed for a month to allow for extensive renovations recently, and we happily welcome them back. Trieste’s new dining room is light and airy, yet very warm and homey, with honey-colored wood floors, creamy beige walls and soft lighting. A small bar at the restaurant entrance stocks a full array of spirits for cocktails, and the wine cellar has a great selection of wines from Italy, South America and California.
Some of the regular customers who have been coming to Trieste for years consider the restaurant a home away from home. Besides such house specialties as the fresh seafood salad and asparagus with artichoke hearts, the regulars appreciate the solicitude of the tuxedo-clad waiters and the excellent service, with most courses served from tableside carts. While we perused the menu, Bruno, our waiter, brought a plate of fresh cheese, olives and vegetables to our table along with a basket of toasted garlic bread. Bruno opened a bottle of Chianti for us and we dove into the fresh shrimp, tender calamari and octopus dressed in a lemon vinaigrette that comprise Trieste’s seafood salad appetizer. Next we enjoyed tender stalks of asparagus flanked by Roman style artichoke hearts still on their long, tender stems, another popular choice, as are shrimp oreganata, with butter and oregano. A cold antipasto platter features thinly sliced cured meats and cheeses along with roasted peppers and tomatoes ($6.75). A hearty bowl of Elio’s minestrone will warm you through and through.
Istrian cuisine features special homemade pasta which one should not skip when visiting Trieste. One such handmade pasta, fuzzi, which resemble bow ties, is cooked al dente and served with Trieste’s signature veal sauce. The veal sauce is slowly cooked for hours until the veal stock is reduced to a smooth gravy. Replete with chunks of tender veal, this sauce is also poured over homemade gnocchi, which are toothsome yet light ($14). At Trieste, manicotti are home made pasta crepes filled with fluffy ricotta cheese, topped with their famous tomato sauce with basil. Homemade cannelloni are filled with meat and herbs and topped with a light béchamel sauce. Linguine frutta di mare, a popular choice, is an abundance of fresh seafood piled on top of al dente linguine ($14.50).
Fresh fish is prominently featured on Trieste’s menu, and your waiter will tell you about fresh catches of the day. Whole orata, a tender, flaky fish, is grilled with lemon and olive oil. Red snapper, sea bass and deep sea scallops are all very fresh and can be prepared to your liking, be it broiled or marechiara style, with a touch of tomato and onion. Plump shrimp francese in a butter, lemon and white wine sauce are another winner.
A hefty veal chop can be either grilled or stuffed with prosciutto and fontina cheese. Prosciutto and fontina cheese fill veal cutlets, which are then sautéed in a savory brown sauce with mushrooms. Tender rack of lamb melts in the mouth and the boneless sirloin steak cuts like butter. All meat and fish entrees are served with Trieste’s delicious oven browned potatoes and fresh vegetables such as sautéed escarole or broccoli.
While it’s difficult after partaking of the appetizers and entrees, do try to save room for dessert and an after dinner cordial. Trieste’s home made Italian cheesecake or the light and fluffy tiramisu goes very well with an espresso and Sambuca. One of my favorite desserts is creamy zabaglione with fresh strawberries, and Trieste makes it just right.
Bring your family and friends for a meal or impress a date with the fine food and excellent service at Trieste. Trieste is open six days a week for lunch and dinner (closed Tuesday). They are conveniently located on Northern Boulevard and 73rd Street in Jackson Heights. Enjoy a grand meal at Trieste.