Owners Nick Neocleous and George, Jack and Charles Trantides, spent 10 months converting an empty warehouse on Steinway Street. The hard work paid off. Your eyes will widen when you enter the front doors of Central, whose decor can best be described as industrial chic, with Asian-inspired panels of aluminum screens and charcoal slate floors.

Central Offers New Concept In Dining & Entertainment

Welcome to Central, a new addition to Astoria’s changing face. Central is the newest place to go for everything from a cappuccino or a snack, to a full meal or drinks and music with friends. Central is a sleek, ultra-hip lounge as well as a notable restaurant, with dishes that rival any I’ve had in four-star restaurants.

Owners Nick Neocleous and George, Jack and Charles Trantides, spent 10 months converting an empty warehouse on Steinway Street. The hard work paid off. Your eyes will widen when you enter the front doors of Central, whose decor can best be described as industrial chic, with Asian-inspired panels of aluminum screens and charcoal slate floors. Central’s interior holds smooth, teak furniture, bright red upholstered banquettes and two backlit bars. Wooden bookshelves create a harmonious balance between modernity and comfort. A sensuous beat from the state-of-the-art sound system moves an evening along nicely, without overpowering conversation.

Central is not just a visual flash in the pan, however. The chef has created a finely chosen menu, with an emphasis on fresh Mediterranean fare, utilizing only the finest meat, fish and vegetables. The wine list was also specifically chosen to complement the flavors of the dishes. We enjoyed a glass of Cote du Rhone while we sampled some of the finest grilled octopus. The chunks of octopus were so tender they melted in my mouth and were surrounded by a mound of frisee lettuce, grape tomatoes and capers ($9). A sampling of caviar dip, eggplant dip and thick tzatziki sauce was spread onto triangles of grilled pita bread while we waited for Central’s signature appetizer. The pou pou grand platter is made for two people and offers two chicken brochettes, several grilled shrimp, lamb meatballs, haloumi cheese and a mountain of tempura style onion rings. Grilled vegetables or spicy calamari also make great starters. These are great snacks to enjoy with cocktails, if you’d rather not have a full dinner.

I love limited menus, because each dish can be given the attention it deserves. The chef took great care in rendering one of the best seared yellowfin tuna steaks I’ve ever had. The tuna was encrusted with sesame seeds and seared just a quarter of an inch into the meaty flesh. (Shame on anyone who asks for tuna well-cooked!) The red pepper coulis, sauteed spinach and baby asparagus tips that accompanied the tuna were just great ($18). The double lamb chops with oregano were also grilled to perfection and were soft as butter, served with crispy herbed potato spears. Even a half chicken is made special with a crust of dijon mustard, herbs and bread crumbs and served with creamy spinach and gigantes beans ($14). De rigeur on any French menu is steak frites, prime cut sirloin, grilled to order and served with classic fries. Central does justice to this classic dish, priced at $17.

If you like a lighter meal, try the tagliatelle with fresh lemon vodka sauce and a touch of cream and zest ($9). Grilled lamb or chicken sandwiches satisfy late night cravings, and at Central the kitchen stays open until 2 a.m. Their hamburgers and individual pizzas are also great for munching. A Central salad combines cucumber, red onion, feta, tomato and herbs with mesclun greens and red wine vinegar dressing ($7). Salad nicoise is another favorite of mine, tossed with green beans, red bliss potatoes and hard cooked eggs.

Whether you come for a cup of coffee, a cocktail, a snack or a full meal, try Central’s chocolate fondue. A fondue pot of warm, Dutch chocolate is surrounded by chunks of fruit and marshmallows for a truly decadent treat. The chocolate mousse and flourless chocolate cake are also spectacular. A glass of port makes an excellent companion to these chocolate marvels, and the coffees are rich and robust as well.

Preparations are already underway for an outdoor deck for warm weather dining and congregating. Specialty drinks such as the blood orange martini, strawberry bellini and mojito will give a taste of summer right now. Don’t wait. Come visit Central. Central would also be a great place for a private party because it has everything: a great interior, fantastic food, desserts, coffee, drinks and music. The service is friendly and efficient too.

Central

20-30 Steinway Street, Astoria

726-1600