Restaurant
Of The Week
By Teresa Barile
Zlata Praha Serves Traditional Czech Cuisine

On a recent visit to Zlata Praha, New York’s only Czech and Slovakian restaurant, I was warmly greeted by proprietors Millie and George Suchanek. Natives of Prague, they came to New York some 35 years ago and opened Zlata Praha, which means "Golden Prague," about eight years ago. Today a visit is a great way to take the time to discover and enjoy the rich culture and traditions of this small, Eastern European country now known as the Czech Republic. In addition to art and music, the Czech and Slovak nations have brought us a traditional, hearty cuisine that is not for the faint-hearted. From the rich mushroom soup made with wild mushrooms and potatoes to the fruit filled dessert crepes, a meal at Zlata Praha will be an experience you will not soon forget.

Enjoy a large glass stein of Czech beer while you read the menu and admire the folkloric costumes, ceramics and currency on one wall of the dining room and the paintings and vintage photos of Golden Prague and the countryside on the opposite wall. For an appetizer, try one of their hearty homemade soups or you share an order of crisp potato pancakes served with chunky apple sauce.

Each night of the week features some wonderful specials in addition to the bountiful menu. For example, Tuesday night offers rich pork goulash with sauerkraut and dumplings. Wednesdays feature tender broiled pork chops with tomatoes, peppers and onions. Friday nights are notable for Polish style pierogies filled with potatoes and served with tangy sauerkraut. Feast on traditional roasted goose on Saturdays and Sundays. Sample their version of sauerbraten, fork-tender braised beef served in a rich sauce with dumplings. Czech cuisine offers several types of dumplings, including wonderfully soft bread dumplings, almost a necessity when you consider all the delicious sauces you’ll want to sop up. Roasted loin of pork needs no knife, as the meat is cooked to a turn and pulls away from the bone. There is also a smoked version of this pork dish with a subtle, woodsy flavor. Another popular dish is the schnitzel a la Praha. A tender veal cutlet is wrapped in a potato pancake and pan fried till golden. Topped with a light sauce, this decadent dish is both delicious and very satisfying.

Dinner prices are very reasonable, ranging from $10.25 to $15.75, and the service is attentive yet informal. I was surprised to see roasted Long Island duckling on the menu, but with just one savory forkful, I was glad I tried it. Slow roasted until the skin is golden and crispy, this duck falls off the bone and melts in your mouth. In the fall, venison is often seen on the menu, prepared expertly according to Old World recipes.

Vegetarians will find some wonderful meatless vegetable, lentil and egg dishes on the menu, all deliciously prepared and presented.

Zlata Praha is open six days a week for lunch and dinner (closed Mondays). At lunchtime, an exceptional lunch special costs only $5.95 and includes a cup of soup, entrée, crepe and coffee and glass of wine. Served from 11:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, this deal is not to be missed.

For dessert try the palacinky or crepe, filled with marmalade or strawberries. The homemade apple strudel is divine accompanied by a cup of steaming hot coffee.

Zlata Praha is located on 31st Street, right near the ‘N’ train 30th Avenue stop, making it convenient for Manhattanites to visit New York’s only Czech/Slovak restaurant. You’ll feel warmly welcomed by the friendly staff at Zlata Praha. Visit soon.

Zlata Praha

28-48 31st St., Astoria

(718) 721-6422