2000-06-07 / Restaurant of the Week

Restaurant Of The Week

By Teresa Barile

Niederstein’s—A Part Of Queens’ History

Truly a part of New York history, Niederstein's Restaurant has been a stronghold of German cooking since 1910, when the Niederstein family came to Queens to start a new life. Maspeth and Middle Village became home to thousands of German immigrants in the 1800s, and the Niederstein family business was an outstanding success.

That the restaurant changed and grew with the neighborhood is evident from the moment you walk in the door. An elaborate system of leather belts and gears on the ceiling once operated the restaurant's first ceiling fan. Today the spacious dining room boasts a modern air conditioning system as well as Bavarian memorabilia.

While traditional German fare still rules, Niederstein has adapted to a more continental menu to satisfy everyone’s palate. Along with sauerbraten and jaeger schnitzel, diners can also choose among broiled salmon filet with herbed butter, pork medallions gorgonzola, and much more.

A courteous waiter brought us a special cold appetizer platter, which included delicious smoked trout, herring in cream sauce, savory smoked salmon carpaccio with capers, German style headcheese and delicious chopped liver pate. Some wonderful hot appetizers include "must have" potato pancakes served with applesauce and cranberry relish ($6). Fried brie cheese in almond crust is a gooey delight, perfect for scooping up with the fresh rye bread brought to the table.

A wide selection of German beers served in mugs, or varietal wines are a perfect accompaniment to any of the entrees, from which I chose my favorite German dish called sauerbraten, marinated brisket of beef served in its own flavorful sweet and sour gravy. Flanked by red cabbage and dumplings, this is a stick-to-the-ribs Bavarian treat. The same holds true for the veal jaeger schnitzel, sautéed in a mushroom wine sauce and served with spaetzele, small dumplings ($16.50).

Continental dishes include slow-roasted loin of pork ($11.50) and chicken breast Florentine on a bed of spinach, finished with a mornay sauce and parmesan cheese ($12.50). A pair of steak lovers will surely enjoy chateaubriand for two, a most satisfying cut of beef tenderloin, served with béarnaise sauce and fresh vegetables.

We ended our meal with delicious desserts, most notably, the famed apple strudel with whipped cream and the bittersweet chocolate mousse with mango sauce. You can’t go wrong with black forest cake or New York cheesecake either.

Niederstein’s is a wonderful venue for a banquet, with full-service facilities for up to 150 people. Speak to Mariah Hochhauser, the congenial manager, to arrange the perfect party. In addition, Hochhauser, the congenial manager, to arrange the perfect party. In addition, Hochhauser has also planned some special events that are worthy of note. First, a special evening of jazz and blues is planned for Friday, July 7th with a buffet dinner, open bar and music, all for $40 per person, including tax and gratuities. Then make reservations a week later, on July 14th for a Murder Mystery Evening at $43 per person. A special senior citizen dance is planned for Aug. 25th. For the low price of $25, all seniors can enjoy a delicious meal with music and dancing. Every Friday and Saturday evening, Niederstein’s has live music to entertain while you dine. Reservations are suggested on weekends. The atmosphere is friendly and so is the service. Visit Niederstein’s Restaurant in Middle Village for delicious German and continental food and for a slice of New York’s history. Auf wiedersehn!

Niederstein’s

69-16

Metropolitan Ave.

Middle Village

(718) 326-0717


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