Cajun Cuisine At Cooking With Jazz

By Teresa Barile

New Orleans is famous for three things: Cajun cooking, jazz and a drink called a "hurricane." Experience the best of all three of these things at "Cooking With Jazz," now at two locations. Owner Steven VanGelder opened the first "Cooking With Jazz" in 1994. Located on the corner of 154th Street and 12th Avenue in Whitestone, this petite restaurant seats only 50 people and is nearly always booked for dinner, especially on the weekends. After many pleas from his faithful clientel, Chef Steve opened "Cooking With Jazz Too" just a quick ride down the Cross Island Parkway in Malverne, Long Island. Here, you can spread out in a spacious dining room that holds nearly three times as many people and still enjoy the same great Cajun cooking at the same prices, with jazz and blues four nights a week.

The atmosphere in both locations is fun and informal, with jalapeno pepper-shaped lights strung across the ceiling. Pictures and posters from the city called "The Big Easy" adorn the walls. Enjoy a famous hurricane cocktail while you peruse the menu. In both locations, the waiting staff is always courteous, efficient and patient as they describe traditional Cajun recipes for you. It’s important to note that while Cajun food is always flavorful, not all the dishes are hot, so don’t shy away if you don’t like spicy foods.

Start with a delicious appetizer of Cajun shrimp served with a zesty remoulade sauce or a bowl of shrimp and andouille gumbo ($6). The smokey flavor in this dish is derived from the smoked andouille sausage that is prevalent in New Orleans–style cooking. Seafood gumbo combines fresh seafood with lots of tasty spices, okra and rice. A trip to bayou country would not be complete without some oysters, and the two restaurants make delicious fried oysters with a zesty dipping sauce that is out of this world.

The jazz duo played bluesy tunes as we dined on entrees of chicken jambalaya and catfish. Jambalaya is a traditional dish that combines andouille sausage, Cajun bacon, chicken, rice and tomato with homemade cornbread on the side. My catfish was so fresh I heard it meow. It was served in a pecan crust with a scoop of tasty rice and fresh vegetables on the side.

Having been to the Whitestone location many times, one of my favorite dishes is the chicken etouffé, which means "smothered" in French. This hearty dish is cooked in a delicious brown sauce and served with garlic mashed potatoes. Seafood Big Mamou is a healthy portion of fresh seafood, served in a spicy tomato sauce over fusilli pasta ($15).

Chef Steve supervises the kitchens at both locations to insure consistency and quality. Only the freshest ingredients are used and everything is made from scratch, even the breads. Chef Steve makes a New Orleans style "pull bread" that is delicately spiced and served warm. The black strap molasses muffins and corn bread are good enough to make a meal of, but please show some restraint.

If your taste requires something more mundane, you’ll be pleased with a juicy, grilled steak or a big plate of Southern fried chicken and biscuits. A number of pasta dishes and herbed chicken round out the menu. Daily specials such as the alligator sausage with Creole mustard or the blackened paillard of lamb with brown garlic butter will tempt the more adventurous eater.

Cooking With Jazz offers an unbeatable prix fixe menu for early birds who are seated by 6 p.m. and out by 7:30 p.m. For the low price of $15, enjoy a three-course meal with choice of appetizer, entrée and dessert. Speaking of dessert, you must save room for Chef Steve’s fabulous Southern desserts including New Orleans bread pudding with whiskey sauce, bananas foster or rich and chewy pecan pie.

The Malverne location offers a spacious private room for parties up to 65 people, ideal for a fun-filled, festive holiday party. Keep it in mind for your next event.

Chef Steve invites you to visit Cooking With Jazz in Whitestone or his new location in Malverne, just 15 minutes from most points in Queens. Most nights in Whitestone are packed, so enjoy leisurely dining in Malverne with great live music on Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday. Visa and Mastercard accepted Call for directions and reservations for a fun evening of Cajun cooking, drinking and music at Cooking With Jazz.