S’Agapo Taverna Offers Taste Of Crete

S’Agapo, which means “I love you” in Greek, is the perfect sentiment for this comfortable Aegean restaurant, located at the corner of 35th Street and 34th Avenue in Astoria. The colorful interior features vibrant oil paintings, fresh flowers and tables dressed in Easter egg-colored linens to reflect the season. There’s plenty of outdoor seating for dining al fresco in warm weather and owners Kostas and Barbara Lambrakis will make you feel at home in their establishment of 11 years.

Traditional cuisine of Crete, the southern-most island in Greece, is featured at S'Agapo. The Lambrakis couple, who produce their own olive oil in Crete for use in the restaurant, make their own Greek sausage called loukaniko, and their own desserts, including Barbara’s own phyllo dough. Guests are treated very well by the professional staff who deliver dish after dish with pride and an explanation of the ingredients and preparation. There is a complete bar, but we were very happy with a carafe of the house red, which was dry and light and complemented the Mediterranean cuisine beautifully. Kostas had us try his own homemade aperitif, a type of grappa, which warmed us up instantly.

It would be foolish to order just one or two appetizers, given the dozens of tempting choices. Make up a party of friends and order several different hot and cold appetizers, such as the platter of assorted dips. Besides the traditional eggplant and yogurt dips, some Cretan specialties were included, such as parsley and hummus dips, and potato garlic dip mixed with beet puree which lent a lovely color. Grape leaves are pureed into a tapenade that, when slathered on toasted pita triangles, is just out of this world. Fava bean salad bursts with flavor, as does the mashed fava bean spread. Hot appetizers include tender, grilled octopus basted in olive oil and rosemary and mushroom caps saganaki, topped with bubbling kefalograviera cheese and a touch of brandy.

Near the kitchen, a refrigerated case reveals a variety of mouth-watering meats ready to be selected and grilled on the charcoal fire. You will drool over the thick, lean shell steak ($24) just begging to sizzle on the grill. Rib eye steaks are basted with fresh lemon and herbs to bring out even more flavor. Large, steel skewers hold fist-sized chunks of lamb, alternated with tomatoes, peppers and onions for a shish-ke-bob fit for a king ($16). Chicken ke-bobs are made in similar fashion. Lean baby lamb chops or thick, juicy pork chops are on display too. All meat entrees come with Cretan style spiced rice pilaf.

Fish plays an important role in the Aegean diet and fresh tsipoura (porgy), or red snapper are basted in olive oil, lemon and herbs and grilled whole on the charcoal fire for maximum flavor. Sargos (black porgy) is the S’Agapo special and I urge you to try it for its freshness and rich flavor. Shrimp can be skewered and grilled or sautéed. Next time, I’ll try the sea scallops sautéed with fresh tomato, herbs and white wine ($22).

Vegetarians and vegans take note: S'Agapo offers at least a dozen vegetarian and vegan menu options and is even included in some guide books for those eschewing animal products.

Barbara’s homemade baklava is legendary, especially since she makes her own phyllo dough for the flakiest confections ever. Her Athenian cream pie is ambrosia for the gods and has had cooking magazines asking her for the recipe. Try it at S’Agapo, along with a cup of clove-scented tea or freshly brewed coffee.

The lunch menu offers wonderful options too. Beautiful wraps are filled with S’Agapo’s homemade sausage, grilled, marinated chicken breast or grilled pork fillet ($7). Hot lunch entrees include the spaghetti Santorini made with shrimp, fresh tomato and creamy feta cheese. It’s no wonder that S’Agapo is a regular eatery for the many staff and crew members at nearby Kaufman Astoria Studios and the Museum of the Moving Image. Even Manhattanites make the trip to S’Agapo for the fine food, service and great atmosphere.

S’Agapo is open seven days a week from noon to midnight. Visa, MasterCard and Diners Club are accepted and orders can be picked up to take home. I can’t wait to visit again for S’Agapo’s delicious Greek cuisine with an accent on the flavors of sunny Crete.