Restaurant
Of The Week
By Teresa Barile
Just Arthur’s Is Just Great Food And Hospitality

Come celebrate an Astoria tradition, Just Arthur’s, open 16 years in the same location on Steinway Street near Ditmars Boulevard. Since the beginning, its founder’s objective was to offer exceptional food and a comfortable atmosphere for dining with friends and family. Arthur Tassiello has achieved this goal with his namesake restaurant. The unassuming brick-faced building houses a warm, stately interior with hardwood floors, rich wainscot walls and a real fireplace to complement the candlelit tables. Floral tablecloths, draperies and seasonal decorations lend a very cozy note to the dining room and soft music fills the air.

Before I begin to describe how delectable the appetizers and entrees are at Just Arthur’s, please be advised that the desserts are heavenly and the prudent diner will want to save room for one of them. That being said, I will say that the starters, ranging from $5 to $9, are all tempting, especially the grilled Portobello mushroom served on a bed of mesclun greens with citrus dressing. Sometimes these beefy tasting mushrooms are stuffed with crabmeat or spinach for a unique appetizer. A special dish of hot Italian sausage was grilled till crispy and served atop a bed of sautéed escarole, making a wonderful first course for one. That evening, we were tempted by tender spring asparagus served on a bed of fragrant arugula, flanked by circles of mozzarella and topped with Dijon vinaigrette and a sprinkling of olives. Arthur’s prides itself on making everything fresh—even the plump shrimp cocktail is made when you order it so the shrimp never dry. Try the "Peggy" salad, named for one of the skilled waitresses, which is full of crunchy vegetables and olives tossed with the zesty house Italian dressing.

Pastas such as rigatoni with sweet and hot Italian sausage or linguine with clam sauce are done in grand style and served in grand portions, Tassiello himself prepared a generous portion of penne with roasted pepper sauce, which was fresh and flavorful. Arthur is a self-taught cook who honed his skills daily at the firehouse where he was a New York City firefighter for 21 years. He grew up in Manhattan, where his family was always involved in the bar and restaurant business and his experience is evident in his cooking and in the menu offerings.

Prime cuts of meat are chosen to prepare extraordinary dishes such as the veal chop Valdostana, a hefty veal chop breaded and stuffed with fontina cheese and prosciutto in a brown wine sauce laced with mushrooms. This is a man-sized entree, served with a melange of vegetables and a homemade potato croquette, as are all entrees on the menu. The veal scaloppine Genovese is tender cutlets of veal sauteed with prosciutto, shallots, mushrooms and peas in a light sauce. A favorite dish of mine is chicken campagnolo. This home-style chicken and grilled sausage combination is sautéed with fiery cherry peppers in a tangy sauce. You’ll soak up every drop with the warm, crusty bread brought to your table.

Just Arthur’s serves Black Angus steaks flown in from Texas and known for their tenderness and woodsy flavor that comes from aging. The 14-ounce steak or 10-ounce filet mignon is prepared to order and can be teamed up with a sweet, broiled lobster tail for a surf and turf treat. Broiled center cut pork chops or lamb chops will satisfy the meat lover in your party. For those who prefer fish and seafood, the lemon sole is dipped in a light egg batter and finished with a butter, wine and lemon sauce. Cajun shrimp are cooked with New Orleans spices for a dish with a little kick. My favorite shrimp dish is called involtini di gamberi, big, tender shrimp wrapped in prosciutto and cooked in white wine with mushrooms, topped with melted mozzarella cheese. This rich and satisfying entrée will make lasting impression. Special fish dishes of the day can include swordfish, salmon or halibut, prepared any way you like.

As previously noted, the desserts at Just Arthur’s are not to be ignored. Indulge in a creamy white chocolate mousse with pineapple and a steaming cup of coffee or cappuccino. A concoction called a pyramid is composed of layers of angel food cake, white chocolate mousse and raspberry with white chocolate drizzled on top. A tear drop is fluffy raspberry mousse. I just loved the miniature chocolate éclairs served in a puddle of Godiva liqueur.

Just Arthur’s will please everyone. A private party room is available for up to 30 people. The main dining room is available for private luncheons, so plan your afternoon office luncheon or business meeting early to secure a place. Feel free to stop in for cocktails, any night except Tuesday. Just Arthur’s is open at 4 p.m. for dinner every day except Tuesday and all credit cards are accepted.

For an evening of delicious food, served by friendly people in a comfortable, unpretentious setting, you must visit Just Arthur’s.

Just Arthur’s

22-08 Steinway St., Astoria

(718) 728-7288